Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles is the official publication of The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. It was launched in 1977. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles aims at providing up-to-date research contents and news on cutting-edge technologies, as well as facilitating the interaction between academia worldwide and related industries, thereby enhancing the professional expertise of its members and contributing to the advancement of apparel.
• Frequency : issued six times a year
• ISSN : 1225-1151 (Print)/2234-0793 (Online)
• Year of Launching : 1977
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Gender Characteristics in Virtual Fashion Design -Virtual Avatars' Genders and Genderless Fashion Design Concepts-
Minji Lena Kim , Sang Ha Yun , Inzali Moe , Eun Kyoung Yang
This study investigated gender characteristics in contemporary virtual fashion design, focusing on avatars and genderless fashion in recent collections from Auroboros, Republiqe, Placebo Digital Fashion House, RTFKT, and Tribute. Employing content analysis within a theoretical framework of gender-related research, the study coded virtual avatars in terms of biological sex, appearance, and sociological perspectives. The results showed a preference for female-type avatars, through which androgynous aesthetics were embraced and traditional gender norms were challenged. Male-type avatars reflected experimentation with blending masculine elements, emphasizing inclusivity. Human-like avatars indicated a preference for designs that promoted inclusivity and, in the process, challenged binary classifications. The examined brands strategically capitalized on compromise, sensuality, and playfulness, thereby breaking away from traditional values to opt for more diverse styles. Genderless features combined elements from traditional men's and women's clothing, espousing sensuality and playful exaggeration. These findings signify a dynamic shift away from conventional gender standards to foster inclusivity and experimentation. They can serve as a reference for promoting creative strategies and design innovation, challenging the traditional gender perspective in the fashion industry. Implementing these strategies can lead to a more inclusive representation of fashion styles, encouraging critical thinking about gender norms.
This study aimed to enhance the comfort of health masks by conducting in-depth interviews, online surveys, and wearing tests on commercial health masks. The findings are summarized below. In-depth interviews revealed that the most comfortable mask styles were ranked as follows: Beak-1 (B-1) & Beak-2 (B-2) style > Flat style > 3-Horizontal foldable (3H) style. Men generally preferred flat style masks, while women favored beak-shaped masks. The internet survey results showed that 77.8% of surveyed brands offered a variety of mask styles, with 3H and B-2 masks being the most common. Different brands provided masks with different filtration levels, ranging from KF-AD to KF94. Size consistency also varied among brands, with flat masks having relatively consistent dimensions and B-2 masks showing significant size differences. Wearing tests indicated that 3H and B-1 masks were highly satisfying for categories like “itchiness,” “unpleasant odor,” and “mask slipping.” Conversely, flat masks scored the highest satisfaction in classifications such as “stiff,” “heavy,” “thick,” “hot while wearing it,” “moisture accumulation,” “breathing discomfort,” “short ear straps,” and “itchiness”. Overall, the flat style, B-1, and B-2 yielded higher satisfaction levels, while 4-Horizontal foldable (4H) and 3H garnered lower satisfaction scores on wearing tests.
Through the recent pandemic, this study examined the theory of awe, which explains that external crises affect people's value systems and consequential behaviors. During the pandemic, some consumers expressed a growing interest in equity, while others pursued the consumption of materialistic items, such as luxurious fashion goods. According to the theory of awe, both of these phenomena could be coping responses to the crisis. Based on this, we attempted to understand the psychological processes behind the pandemic's effect on these two different consumers value systems thereby influencing sustainable consumption intentions: one through the new ecological paradigm (NEP) that emphasizes consumers' increased consciousness, and the other through materialism that emphasizes consumers' self-centered side. The results obtained from a survey of 382 U.S. consumers revealed that the degree of pandemic experience increased consumers' NEP and materialism, which also increased their economic and ethical CSR expectations. These CSR expectations then enhanced consumers' sustainable consumption intentions. As sustainable consumption and CSR are important agendas for the fashion industry, this study will provide useful insights for researchers and practitioners in the fashion field.
Key Words
Value system, Theory of awe, Crisis, Sustainable behavior, New ecological paradigm
Mapping the Landscape and Future Trajectory of Domestic Textile and Fashion Museums -A Case Study of Seoul and Daegu- 국내 섬유·패션 박물관의 현황 분석 및 방향 모색 -서울과 대구를 중심으로-
Mapping the Landscape and Future Trajectory of Domestic Textile and Fashion Museums -A Case Study of Seoul and Daegu- 국내 섬유·패션 박물관의 현황 분석 및 방향 모색 -서울과 대구를 중심으로-
This study investigated the current statuses of and challenges faced by 19 textile and fashion museums in Seoul and Daegu. Through interviews conducted via email, phone, and face-to-face meetings with museum officials, this research analyzed the prevalent difficulties encountered by the museums based on the concept of the new museum. The results indicate that domestic museums experience different difficulties depending on operating organization rather than collection or exhibition content. This is related to the distribution of museums by operating institutions, as most textile craft museums are private establishments, and, the majority of dress and fashion museums are university-affiliated institutions. Accordingly, this study explored the major problems confronting textile craft, dress and fashion, and accessory museums with a consideration for operating institutions. It proposes improvements in domestic textile and fashion museums through a comparative analysis with overseas museums as new museums.
Key Words
K-fashion, Fashion museum, Textiles musum, Fashion museology, New museum, K-패션, 패션 박물관, 섬유박물관, 패션박물관학, 뉴뮤지엄
Analysis of Virtual Fitting Effects of Cropped T-Shirts by Body Type for Women in Their 20s -Utilizing the Effects of Geometric Shapes- 20대 여성 체형별 크롭 티셔츠의 가상착의 효과 분석 -기하 형태 효과의 활용-
Analysis of Virtual Fitting Effects of Cropped T-Shirts by Body Type for Women in Their 20s -Utilizing the Effects of Geometric Shapes- 20대 여성 체형별 크롭 티셔츠의 가상착의 효과 분석 -기하 형태 효과의 활용-
This study aimed to enhance the design of cropped t-shirts to improve fit satisfaction among women in their 20s by tailoring the t-shirts to diverse body types. Body types were categorized using Size Korea's 8th Human Body Measurement Data, and statistical analysis was conducted based on the Statistical Package for the Social Sciences (version 26.0). This study also reviewed the literature on t-shirts and fit, the application of pattern and design improvements for different body types, verifying fit and size for each body type, and applying virtual fit effects using geometric forms. Frequency analysis and non-parametric verification were conducted using the Friedman test. The results showed that t-shirts with a horizontal rectangular shape was an effective design and that t-shirts with an inverted triangular structure also had a positive effect. In contrast, square t-shirts exhibited minimal effectiveness. These findings are expected to contribute to the consideration of customized shapes according to body type in t-shirt design. Research on customized virtual cropped t-shirts reflecting various body types can expand fit satisfaction studies, particularly amid the increasing trend of online shopping.
Key Words
Women in their 20s, Body type, Cropped t-shirts, Virtual fit, Geometric form effect, 20대 여성, 체형, 크롭 티셔츠, 가상착의, 기하 형태 효과
The Effect of Consumer Evaluations of Size Recommendation Services Based on Body Information on Consumer Responses and the Moderating Effect of the Level of Information Search 신체정보 기반 사이즈 추천서비스에 대한 소비자 평가가 소비자 반응에 미치는 영향과 정보탐색정도의 조절효과
The Effect of Consumer Evaluations of Size Recommendation Services Based on Body Information on Consumer Responses and the Moderating Effect of the Level of Information Search 신체정보 기반 사이즈 추천서비스에 대한 소비자 평가가 소비자 반응에 미치는 영향과 정보탐색정도의 조절효과
This study was conducted to examine the effects of consumer evaluations on size recommendation services based on body information on consumer responses and the moderating effect of the level of information search. To analyze the research model, a total of 200 data were collected from August 18 to 24, 2022, targeting consumers who had experience with using size recommendation services based on body information. As a result of the research model analysis, it was confirmed that the compatibility, reliability, and convenience of the size recommendation services based on body information influenced attitude, which, in turn, influenced usage intention. In addition, In the case of the group subject to a low level of information search, the path through which compatibility and reliability influenced attitude was significant, but that of convenience was not. In the group featuring a high level of information search, the path through which reliability and convenience influenced attitude was significant, but that of compatibility was not. This study is meaningful in that it expanded research related to size recommendation services to the field of consumer behavior.
This study aimed to compare the cooling effect of specific body parts to increase workers’ thermal comfort. The parts to be cooled comprised the head and neck; the coolant was a phase change material. The participants were ten men in their 20s of average size according to the 8th Size Korea. The experiment was conducted under the following conditions: 28.0 ± 0.5℃, 60.0 ± 5.0% RH, and 0.2 ± 0.1m/s. The exercise consisted of participants moving for 15 min at a constant speed of 80 BPM; later, a subjective sensation was performed, and the clothing surface temperature was measured. In doing so, heat, wetness, and discomfort after exercise were confirmed to have increased without a coolant. Significant differences over time appeared only when no coolant was used, showing that thermal comfort decreased. Despite the addition of coolant, the clothing surface temperature gradually increased over time, but it decreased with coolant rather than without it. Therefore, additional coolant areas, a lower temperature, and simultaneous cooling convection were required to improve thermal comfort.
Dyeing Properties of Bacterial Cellulose Fabric using Gardenia Jasminoides, Green Tea, and Pomegranate Peel, and the Effects of Protein Pretreatment 치자, 녹차, 석류껍질을 활용한 박테리아 셀룰로오스 섬유소재의 염색성과 단백질 전처리의 영향
황예림 Yerim Hwang , 김현진 Hyunjin Kim , 김혜림 Hye Rim Kim
Dyeing Properties of Bacterial Cellulose Fabric using Gardenia Jasminoides, Green Tea, and Pomegranate Peel, and the Effects of Protein Pretreatment 치자, 녹차, 석류껍질을 활용한 박테리아 셀룰로오스 섬유소재의 염색성과 단백질 전처리의 영향
황예림 Yerim Hwang , 김현진 Hyunjin Kim , 김혜림 Hye Rim Kim
The aim of this study was to impart color to bacterial cellulose (BC) fabric using various natural plant-based dyes-namely, gardenia jasminoides, green tea, and pomegranate peel. A protein pretreatment was also applied to improve the BC fabric's dyeability and mechanical properties. The BC fabric's dyeing and mordanting conditions when using plant-based natural dyes were determined by changes in the K/S values. The dyeability of BC samples dyed with green tea or pomegranate peel improved when they were pretreated with soy protein isolate (SPI) prior to dyeing. Moreover, the SPI pretreatment was efficient in improving the BC fabric's tensile strength and flexibility. This study proposes a method for dyeing BC fabric that uses plant-based natural dyes and confirms the effects of the protein pretreatment on the fabric's dyeability and durability.
Key Words
Bacterial cellulose, Gardenia jasminoides, Green tea, Pomegranate peel, Protein pretreatment, 박테리아 셀룰로오스, 치자, 녹차, 석류껍질, 단백질 전처리
Body Types of Tall Women Over 165cm 165cm 이상 키 큰 여성의 체형 유형
The aim of this study was to analyze and typify the body shape of tall women aged 20-69 using 3D measurement data from the 2020 8th Human Dimensions Survey data with greater than 165.0 cm in height defined as large stature. Each body type’s characteristics were examined to derive points of differentiation compared to women of average body type. The analysis showed that as height increases, body height, length, and generally body circumference, thickness, and width also increase. However, taller women were found to have thinner waists, indicating a wider, flatter waist area. Waist circumference was also smaller, albeit not at a statistically significant level. Body shapes of adult women over 165.0 cm tall were classified into three types. The following body types were analyzed: thick ankles and drooping shoulders, thin and short torso, tall and long, long torso and thick ankles, large body circumference, thickness and width, normal torso length, and short stature and thin ankles. To develop garments for adult women over 165.0 cm tall, a new drafting method was required set the waist, knee height, and shoulder width.
Key Words
Body shape, Height, 165cm, Pattern drafting, Tall women, 체형, 키, 165cm, 패턴 제도, 키 큰 여성
Color Developing of Hanji Fabrics by Heat Treatment of Persimmon Juice and Shuliang Extract and Mud Dyeing 감물과 서랑 추출물의 열처리와 진흙염색에 의한 한지직물의 색상 발현
This study used persimmon juice, shuliang, and mud to develop the color of hanji fabrics. Persimmon juice and shuliang were used to perform single and mixing dyeing with heat treatment using the pad-dry-cure (PDC) method. Next, mud dyeing was performed, and the hanji fabrics dyed with persimmon juice and shuliang were developed into Yellow Red (YR) Munsell colors with very low values and chroma. Through scanning electron microscopy, the persimmon juice and shuliang were observed to be evenly treated on the hanji fabrics using the PDC method. Furthermore, the presence of iron ions in the dyed fabrics was confirmed using inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry analysis. The stiffness of the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was the greatest, while it gradually decreased for the fabrics treated with mixing and mud dyeing. With mixing dyeing, the colorfastness to washing improved to grade 4, whereas with mud dyeing, the colorfastness to alkaline sweat greatly improved to grade 4~4-5. Based on these findings, this study confirmed that it is possible to develop hanji fabrics with differentiated textures and colors while ensuring practical colorfastness through mixing and mud dyeing.
Analysis of Changes to a 2D Bodice Sloper According to Shoulder Line Variables of a 3D Mannequin and Their Relationships 3D 인대의 어깨선 변인에 따른 2D 길원형의 변화 및 상호관계 분석
Analysis of Changes to a 2D Bodice Sloper According to Shoulder Line Variables of a 3D Mannequin and Their Relationships 3D 인대의 어깨선 변인에 따른 2D 길원형의 변화 및 상호관계 분석
This study analyzed 2D bodice sloper changes according to combinations of the lateral neck and shoulder points of a 3D mannequin's shoulder lines. The relationship between the 3D shape and 2D pattern was analyzed. The shoulder line was set to a default of 1㎝ in front of or behind the lateral neck point, 1㎝ in front or behind the lateral shoulder point and 1㎝ vertically above the lateral neck or shoulder point. When the lateral neck point was moved backward, the front neck depth, front and back shoulder height, and shoulder length in the 3D shape increased, whereas the back neck's depth and width decreased. In the 2D pattern, the back shoulder height decreased. As the lateral shoulder point moved backward, all items of the 3D shape showed little change. However, the front shoulder height for the 2D pattern decreased. Consequently, the back shoulder height increased, and the lateral neck point was raised vertically by 1㎝. Meanwhile, only the back neck depth and shoulder length decreased while all other items increased; however, in the 2D pattern, the front neck width and shoulder line showed no notable change. The shoulder point was raised vertically by 1㎝, and the front and back shoulder heights of the 3D shape and 2D pattern were decreased.
Key Words
Bodice sloper, 2D pattern, 3D shape, Lateral neck point, Lateral shoulder point, 길원형, 2차원 패턴, 3차원 형상, 목옆점, 어깨가쪽점
Development of 3D-printed Cultural Products Using Yuan Blue and White Porcelain Patterns
Bracelets have enjoyed extensive use among the Chinese since antiquity as decorative pieces credited with warding off evil forces and inviting auspicious fortune. This study aims to integrate traditional cultural elements, such as Yuan blue and white porcelain flower patterns, into modern design using 3D printing technology to create culturally inspired bracelets. To this end, bracelet designs from the top four museums on Taobao were examined. In addition, we analyzed online reviews of culturally themed bracelets using text mining and applying FEA criteria and found that Chinese consumers are easy to wear and sizable, enhance cultural pride, and drive the demand for artistically sophisticated bracelets. The research culminates in the development of a modular bracelet design inspired by flower motifs from blue and white ware of the Yuan dynasty, with an emphasis on iterative improvements based on reviewer feedback. The final design meets consumers' expressive and aesthetic needs while also maintaining cultural integrity and functionality. The aim of the study is to inspire pride in traditional culture, provide insights for fashion accessory industries, and promote the national image through the development of culturally inspired products.
Key Words
3D printing, Blue and white porcelain, Cultural product, FEA model, Online review
