Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles is the official publication of The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. It was launched in 1977. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles aims at providing up-to-date research contents and news on cutting-edge technologies, as well as facilitating the interaction between academia worldwide and related industries, thereby enhancing the professional expertise of its members and contributing to the advancement of apparel.
• Frequency : issued six times a year
• ISSN : 1225-1151 (Print)/2234-0793 (Online)
• Year of Launching : 1977
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A Study on Consumer Perceptions and Preferences for Vegan Leather 비건 가죽에 대한 소비자 인식과 선호 연구
This study aimed to explore the perceived definition, perceptions, and preferences of “vegan leather” among Korean consumers. An in-depth survey was conducted among Korean women in their 20s-50s. The self-as-sessed perception level of vegan fashion or vegan leather was lower than that of vegan in general and higher among those in their 50s than those in their 30s. Over 50% of respondents defined vegan leather as leather from plant materials, while 40% viewed it as including all types of alternative leathers, such as faux and synthetic options. However, a notable 57.6% of participants showed confusion, failing to distinguish between several provided definitions of vegan leather and demonstrating inconsistency in their subsequent responses. The study also explored factors influencing consumer preferences for different types of leather. The most decisive factors were ethical considerations regarding animal welfare and environmental impact, while the sensory qualities of faux leather largely drove negative sentiments. The results of the study provide insights significant for the development process of alternative leather materials and emphasize the importance of social agreement in a consistent definition of vegan leather.
Key Words
Vegan leather, Definition of vegan leather, Sustainability, Consumer perception, Consumer preference, 비건 가죽, 비건 가죽 정의, 지속가능성, 소비자 인식, 소비자 선호도
Degradation of the Meaning of the Rhombus Motif of Atoin Meto Weaving
This research focuses on providing an overview of the development and preservation of the narrative meaning of weaving with the Atoin Meto rhombus pattern. Weavers, traditional leaders, cultural figures, clergymen, and weaving observers are the informants of this research. This study is qualitative and descriptive, with a case study method. The subject of the research is the use of weaving with rhombus motifs as 1) cultural and aesthetic elements in daily clothing, 2) cultural and social elements in traditional ceremonies, and 3) ethical and religious elements in religious ceremonies. The results of this study are expected to help uncover and answer problems, as well as phenomena related to cultural degradation in the context of meaning, as well as functional aspects of rhombus-patterned weaving. The results of this study can be used as a reference for the community, weavers, traditional figures, and various parties involved in it, who have a mission to preserve the cultural values of Atoin Meto itself.
Key Words
Rhombus-patterned motif, Weaving Atoin Meto, Degradation of meaning
A Study on the Imagery of Fashion Images based on Monneyron’s Research 모네홍의 연구를 기반으로 한 패션 이미지의 상상계 연구
This study explores the imagery of fashion images, drawing from French imaginary research. French anthropologist Gilbert Durand’s “anthropological structure of the imaginary” and sociologist Frédéric Monneyron’s fashion image theory lay the foundation for a fashion image hermeneutic that emphasizes the connection between imagination and image expression. This study, through extensive literature research and a review of case studies from 1960 to 1999, ultimately creates a table of isotope taxonomy of imaginary fashion. This table is a professional tool that analyzes the symbolic expressions and meanings contained in fashion images to reveal deep social meaning. As a result, it was found that the fashion images of the times have a certain regularity within the same structure as the form of the system, reflecting both the fashion and social aspects. In addition, fashion images can be interpreted methodologically, which enables us to categorize visible expressions in fashion and explore the concept of imagination. Furthermore, beyond the simple aesthetic appeal of fashion images, they not only provide deep insight into our complex inner world and society but also allow us to explore the influence of fashion images that reflect social change.
Key Words
Fashion imagery, The imaginary, Symbolic expressions, Fashion sociology, 패션 이미지, 상상계, 상징 표현, 패션사회학
Foot Measurement Using a Smartphone App and Evaluation of Fit Satisfaction with Custom-Handmade Footwear
We surveyed footwear fit satisfaction to inform the development of a custom-handmade footwear ordering system with foot measurement via augmented reality (AR) virtual fitting available to consumers on-tact (non-face-to-face) in a smartphone app. The participants included 300 Sookmyung Women’s University students and female employees. The first experiment comprised foot measurement and AR virtual fitting via the app and a survey of respondents’ ready-made footwear purchases and fit satisfaction evaluations. In the second experiment, 50 participants were randomly selected to wear custom handmade footwear made using the collected measurement data The study’s findings revealed that the X value of the foot model accuracy for the virtual wearing function in the form of footwear was 0.0 mm, and the level of satisfaction was high. The fit of the custom handmade footwear made with the subjects’ foot measurement data obtained through the foot measurement app showed a statistically significant difference of p < .05 compared to the ready-made footwear. The foot measurement app’s accuracy was confirmed through certification within the standard tolerance ≤ ±1 mm range, with a maximum average difference of 2 mm between the existing value and the 3D scanning value presented in ISO 20685-1.
Key Words
Non-face-to-face, Smartphone app, Foot measurement, Custom handmade footwear, Fit satisfaction
A Study on the Denim Textile Design Complementing the Original Bleaching Technique -Creating Tote Bags and Pouches with Traditional Korean Roof Tile Patterns- 기존 탈색 기법을 보완한 데님 텍스타일 디자인 연구 -전통 기와 무늬를 응용한 토트백과 파우치 작품 제작을 중심으로-
A Study on the Denim Textile Design Complementing the Original Bleaching Technique -Creating Tote Bags and Pouches with Traditional Korean Roof Tile Patterns- 기존 탈색 기법을 보완한 데님 텍스타일 디자인 연구 -전통 기와 무늬를 응용한 토트백과 파우치 작품 제작을 중심으로-
This study presents a complementary bleaching technique using laser cutting and stamping patterns on neoprene fabric to address the limitations of conventional denim bleaching methods. Neoprene was chosen for its resistance to deformation and effective bleach absorption. Through experiments, the optimal bleaching conditions were identified as a 15-minute bleaching time with 100% wet pick-up (w.p.u.) and the use of two fabric sheets simultaneously, which minimized smearing and enhanced the bleaching effect. Inspired by traditional Korean roof tile patterns, symbolizing past technological and aesthetic achievements, motifs were designed, laser cut, and applied to the fabric under these conditions. The process resulted in the creation of 13 totes and 4 pouches. This technique blends technology with craftsmanship, offering a fresh approach to textile design. Furthermore, it also has the potential to inspire the development of innovative denim textiles and cultural products, as well as to diversify creative expression, by expanding its use.
Identification of Key Dynamic Postures for 3D Anthropometric Projects -Based on Various Industrial Demands- 3차원 인체 측정 조사사업을 위한 필수 동적자세 탐색 -다양한 산업 요구를 기반으로-
홍유화 Yuhwa Hong , 김현욱 Hyunwook Kim , 박주연 Juyeon Park
Identification of Key Dynamic Postures for 3D Anthropometric Projects -Based on Various Industrial Demands- 3차원 인체 측정 조사사업을 위한 필수 동적자세 탐색 -다양한 산업 요구를 기반으로-
홍유화 Yuhwa Hong , 김현욱 Hyunwook Kim , 박주연 Juyeon Park
This research aimed to identify key dynamic postures required by various industries for future population- based 3D anthropometric projects such as Size Korea. Therefore, we first compiled a list of relevant industry sectors with a demand for dynamic measurement data and listed representative firms in each industry sector. We then conducted one-on-one interviews to identify the precise postures and measurement points required for dynamic anthropometric assessment, concentrating on posture requirements specific to each industry. Furthermore, we convened a consultative session with anthropometric specialists to confirm high-demand postures and necessary measurement points. The research outcomes identified four principal postures: daily working posture, maximum bending posture, seated work posture, and stair-climbing posture, which represent a range of daily movements. Further, the shoulder, elbow, and neck joint flexion were identified as critical measurement points. These findings are anticipated to substantiate the application of human measurement data in motion, satisfying a wide variety of industrial demands in product design and development practices.
Key Words
Dynamic postures, 3D anthropometric projects, Industrial demands, 동적 자세, 3차원 인체측정, 산업 요구
The Potential of YouTube as a Medium for Fashion Criticism from the Perspective of Reception Aesthetics Perspective -An Analysis of Fashion YouTube Comments- 수용미학 관점에서 살펴본 유튜브의 패션 비평 매체 가능성 -패션 유튜브 콘텐츠 댓글 분석을 중심으로-
The Potential of YouTube as a Medium for Fashion Criticism from the Perspective of Reception Aesthetics Perspective -An Analysis of Fashion YouTube Comments- 수용미학 관점에서 살펴본 유튜브의 패션 비평 매체 가능성 -패션 유튜브 콘텐츠 댓글 분석을 중심으로-
This study applied the Reception Aesthetics theory to analyze the content and comments of fashion YouTubers, identifying five types of responses to explore contemporary fashion criticism on YouTube. The top five popular videos from leading fashion YouTubers were selected, and the comments categorized into associative, admiring, sympathetic, cathartic, and ironic responses. Both the content and comments were analyzed. The findings indicate that YouTube serves as a new arena for fashion criticism, incorporating public opinions. In the associative type, viewers actively engaged with the YouTuber’s content, sharing critical opinions. The admiring type featured exaggerated praise and amazement, contributing to a consensus among viewers. The sympathetic type reflected empathy from the creator’s perspective, incorporating personal experiences into the criticism. The cathartic type revealed responses providing emotional release, while the ironic type included social criticism through sarcasm. This study confirms that YouTube is evolving from mere content consumption to a space where the public actively participates and engages in criticism. It highlights the potential for a bidirectional platform to expand fashion criticism from professional circles to the general public, fostering a ‘popular fashion culture.’ This research suggests that YouTube can establish itself as a new form of fashion criticism.
Key Words
Reception aesthetics, Fashion YouTube, Case study, Fashion criticism, 수용미학, 패션 유튜브, 사례 연구, 패션 비평
Leg Shape Types in Normal-Weight Women 정상체중 여성의 다리 형태 유형
This study aimed to analyze and categorize the leg shapes of normal-weight adult women in their 20s and 30s with the ideal body shape. In other words, it attempted to extract basic data necessary for developing pants patterns for adult women. Adult women were categorized into three leg types: sheep-legged, with thick and large knuckles and thighs but thin ankles and low ankle height; straight-legged, with thick ankles and knees and thin knuckles and thighs; and crane-legged, with normal leg and ankle thickness but thin knees. Developing pants patterns for adult women in their 20s and 30s suggests that sheep-legged women should use an outward curve instead of the inward curve found in conventional patterns to accommodate their thighs and provide extra leg space. Furthermore, straight-legged people should reorganize their drafting from a straight line from knee to ankle to a curved line that curves inward to reduce the amount of slack in the hip area. The crane-legged type requires a drafting method that sets less allowance at the knee. Moreover, new pants drafting methods should account for the unique characteristics of each type, including hip allowance and the inner and outer leg lines.
Key Words
Leg shape, Normal weight, Thigh circumference, Women, 다리 형태, 정상체중, 넙다리둘레, 여성
Combat Uniform Patterns Suggestions for Female Soldiers Considering Anthropometric Changes in Korean Women 한국인 인체 측정치 변화 양상을 반영한 여군 전투복 패턴 치수 개선안
In this study, we provided foundational data for developing combat uniform patterns for female soldiers by analyzing anthropometric data of Korean women in their 20s-40s. We utilized the 6th (2010) and 8th (2021) datasets from Size Korea. We conducted a wearing evaluation of fit suitability on participants who met the average measurements in the 8th dataset. Compared to the 6th dataset, all height items increased in the 8th dataset, except for hip height. The length, circumference, breadth, and depth items increased, except for bust point breadth, crotch length, upper arm length, arm length, and vertical trunk circumference. The flatness ratio decreased, resulting in a rounder body shape. Additionally, the A body type, characterized by larger hips than the chest and a slim waist, was more prevalent. During the wearing evaluation, participants reported discomfort in the shoulder, posterior shoulder, bottom of the jacket, hip, and thigh areas. Therefore, to reflect these changes in the 8th dataset, wearing evaluation and ease of the current combat uniform patterns for female soldiers should be adjusted by increasing the bottom, posterior shoulder, and shoulder length of the jacket. Additionally, for the pants, the hip circumference should be increased.
Key Words
Female soldiers, Combat uniform patterns, Anthropometric data, Body size, Size Korea, 여군, 전투복 패턴, 인체측정 자료, 인체 치수, 한국인 인체치수조사
Beyond Visual Realism -Understanding the Role of Verbal Cues in Generating Consumer Affinity vs. Fear toward Virtual Influencers in Social Network Advertising-
Beyond Visual Realism -Understanding the Role of Verbal Cues in Generating Consumer Affinity vs. Fear toward Virtual Influencers in Social Network Advertising-
Verbal cues of virtual influencers (VIs) can enhance VI anthropomorphism and persuasion effectiveness, which can increase user interactions via positive emotional arousal. This study explored the effects of verbal cues in VI social network advertising (SNA) on consumer emotions and engagement. This study employed a mixed-method approach, utilizing text mining (word frequency analysis and latent Dirichlet allocation (LDA) topic modeling) and quantitative regression analysis, to analyze user comments from YouTube videos featuring the VI, Lil Miquela. The findings revealed that consumers exhibit various emotions toward VIs, with fear being the most prominent, followed by amazement and affinity. Regression analyses further indicated the role of VI’s verbal cues (e.g., voiceover) in enhancing consumers’ emotional engagement with the VI, thereby improving VI SNA performance (e.g., view counts). When VIs use voiceover, positive emotions, including amazement and affinity, increase, leading to higher view counts. Conversely, the absence of verbal cues amplifies negative emotions such as fear, reducing view counts and the overall SNA effectiveness. This study underscores the importance of incorporating human-like verbal cues in VIs to foster consumer affinity and mitigate fear about the VIs. Additionally, practical implications for marketers include the strategies to leverage verbal elements to design more relatable and engaging VI SNA content.
Key Words
Virtual influencer, Emotion, Verbal cue, Video content, Social network advertising
Persuasive Impact of Eco-friendly Consumption Messages in Virtual Reality Fashion Stores -The Role of Store Ambiance and Visit Motivation- 가상 패션 매장에서 친환경 소비 메시지의 설득 효과 -매장 분위기와 방문 동기의 영향-
원유정 Yujeong Won , 장세윤 Seyoon Jang , 심영호 Youngho Sim , 이유리 Yuri Lee
Persuasive Impact of Eco-friendly Consumption Messages in Virtual Reality Fashion Stores -The Role of Store Ambiance and Visit Motivation- 가상 패션 매장에서 친환경 소비 메시지의 설득 효과 -매장 분위기와 방문 동기의 영향-
원유정 Yujeong Won , 장세윤 Seyoon Jang , 심영호 Youngho Sim , 이유리 Yuri Lee
This study examines the impact of informational messaging and eco-conscious ambiances in online virtual reality (VR) fashion stores on consumers’ intentions for eco-friendly consumption. By focusing on three dimensions of message informativity and the persuasive power of eco-friendly consumption messages, we investigate how immersive VR environments can foster eco-friendly consumption. Using a three-dimensional VR store simulation with eco-friendly and modern designs, the study assessed the effects on consumers’ perceptions and intention through the elaboration likelihood model and cue consistency theory. Participants experienced the VR store under two primary visit motivation typess―browsing versus purchasing―and two store ambiance types―eco-friendly versus modern―and then completed online surveys. Results The results indicated that the eco-friendly VR ambiance significantly increased the perceived informativity and persuasiveness of eco-conscious consumption messages, particularly among exploratory shoppers. Reliability emerged as the most influential factor in boosting message persuasiveness and eco-friendly consumption participation intentions. These findings suggest that VR technology can effectively promote sustainable fashion by creating reliable, immersive experiences. Given that current VR store visits are often motivated by interest-based browsing rather than by specific purchase intent, this study contributes to the understanding of the eco-conscious consumption messaging and communication strategies in the new fashion retail space.
Key Words
Virtual reality fashion store, Information message, Persuasion, Eco-friendly store ambiance, Elaboration likelihood model, 가상현실 패션 매장, 정보 메시지, 설득, 친환경 매장 분위기, 정교화 가능성 모델
Types and Characteristics of Early 20th Century Cotton Textiles in Song Hwa-seon’s Janggi 송화선 장기(掌記)에 나타난 20세기 초 면직물의 종류와 특징
The purpose of this literature review is to identify the types of cotton fabrics recorded in the accounting record documents of Song Hwa-seon, a wholesaler in the early 20th century, and to clarify characteristics of each type. First, the changes in the cotton industry in the late Joseon Dynasty were examined through ancient documents and previous studies. Next, the types of fabrics that could be classified as cotton fabrics in Song Hwa-seon’s Janggi were extracted, and the frequency of each type was analyzed. Finally, the characteristics of the cotton fabrics recorded in the Janggi were examined through literature and newspaper articles published at the time. The results of the study are as follows. First, the cotton fabrics recorded in the Janggi could be classified into 12 types, with Gwangmok being the most frequent, and Ok-yangmok being the second most frequent. Second, it was confirmed that a significant amount of Western and Japanese cotton textiles, were distributed in the modern Korean market. Third, while imported cotton fabrics of broad width were popular in the early 20th century, it was confirmed that the demand for traditional cotton textiles, characterized by a narrow width was also high in the domestic market.
Key Words
Korean traditional textiles, Korean traditional cotton textiles, Korean modern cotton textiles, Early 20th century cotton textiles, Janggi, 한국 전통 직물, 한국 전통 면직물, 한국 근대 면직물, 20세기초 면직물, 장기
The Effect of Gear Acquisition Syndrome on Consumer Pride and Subjective Well-being in Sportswear 스포츠웨어에서의 장비 획득 증후군이 소비자의 자부심과 주관적 웰빙에 미치는 영향
As the global sportswear market expands, consumers are emerging who value not only functional purposes but also fashionable attire suitable for sports activities. Therefore, this study investigated the relationship between consumers’ desires, gear acquisition syndrome(GAS) tendencies, pride, and subjective well-being in the context of sportswear. A web-based survey was conducted with 200 adult sportswear consumers in South Korea, and the data were analyzed using the SPSS and AMOS statistical packages. The study results revealed that consumers with higher levels of need to mimic, need for performance improvement, and need to show off were more likely to exhibit tendencies toward GAS. Consumers with stronger tendencies toward GAS had higher levels of pride and subjective well-being, and higher pride was associated with higher subjective well-being. Furthermore, the financial status and affordability of consumers influenced the relationship between their need for self-esteem and GAS. This study highlights the positive relationship between GAS regarding sportswear and consumers’ pride and subjective well-being. Overall, these findings can effectively inform the development of marketing strategies that target consumers with such tendencies.
Key Words
Consumer needs, Gear acquisition syndrome (GAS), Pride, Subjective well-being, Affordability, 소비자 욕구, 장비 획득 증후군, 자부심, 주관적 웰빙, 경제적 여유
A Study of the Rank Insignia of the Korean Independence Army 한국광복군 계급장 연구
The Korean Independence Army (KIA) played a crucial role in the struggle for independence from imperial Japan. Its rank insignia were essential for signifying its status as a regular military force. While previous studies have examined their regulation, the insignia served various purposes, and some have been neglected. This study conducts a comprehensive analysis of the KIA’s rank insignia to clarify their forms and uses, drawing on relevant regulations, literary sources, photographs, and artifacts. The insignia used by the KIA, derived from the Army of the Chinese Nationalist Government, were identified and examined. The study found that high-ranking officers and those from the KIA’s 3rd branch wore collar insignia, and identification patches were more commonly used. The KIA established the Army Insignia Protocol independently, but discrepancies occurred between the shoulder patches designed and those worn, indicating that they were likely used by high-ranking officers during ceremonies. This study found that the 3rd company of the KIA’s 1st branch wore unique, self-made rank insignia that differed from the others. The study provides a framework for dating KIA photographs and verifying the authenticity of military artifacts, enabling more accurate portrayals of the KIA in the media.
Key Words
Army insignia protocol, Korean independence army, Military uniform, Korean provisional government, Rank insignia, 육군휘장도안, 한국광복군, 군복, 대한민국 임시정부, 계급장
Thoughts on Theory -Reflections from Senior and Junior Researchers-
What is a theory, and what is its role in our research? Although we use them every day as researchers or as individuals, many of us consider applying theories challenging and view creating a new theory as even more daunting. In this manuscript, we discuss the definition of the term “theory,” why theories are important, how to develop a new theory, and ways of evaluating a theory’s usefulness. The authors, a seasoned researcher and a novice researcher, share their unique experiences and perspectives on theories, offering insights into their personal journeys of theory development and evaluation, along with valuable takeaways learned throughout the process. We hope that this manuscript offers unique insights into how we apply, build, and critique theories in both academic and practical contexts. By sharing our experiences, we aim to provide guidance for readers, helping them embark on their own journeys to develop new theories and assess the theories of others effectively.
Key Words
Theory, Development, Evaluation
How Critical is Sustainability in Enhancing Sustainable Apparel Purchase Intentions? -Psychological Egoism and Congruity Theory Approach to Understanding the Roles of Brand Type and Green Self-identity-
How Critical is Sustainability in Enhancing Sustainable Apparel Purchase Intentions? -Psychological Egoism and Congruity Theory Approach to Understanding the Roles of Brand Type and Green Self-identity-
With growing concerns about sustainability in the fashion industry, fashion brands are increasingly promoting their sustainability initiatives. However, do sustainable attributes always drive consumers’ purchase intentions toward sustainable apparel? Grounded in psychological egoism and congruity theory, this study aims to understand the effect of conventional and sustainable apparel attributes on purchase intentions for sustainable apparel, considering the roles of brand type (fast fashion vs. sustainable fashion) and green self-identity. Data were collected from an online survey of 244 U.S. consumers aged 18 and older. The results revealed that conventional attributes of quality, fit, style, and comfort had a significantly stronger effect on purchase intentions than sustainable attributes. Both conventional and sustainable attributes enhanced purchase intention for fast fashion brands, while only conventional attributes were significant for sustainable fashion brands. Green self-identity did not have a significant moderating effect, indicating that apparel buying is a behavior less influenced by green self-identity. The findings highlight the importance of conventional attributes while suggesting that attributes perceived as lacking in the brand are crucial for driving purchase intentions. This study offers valuable insights into consumer behavior in sustainable fashion consumption and helps develop effective strategies for fast fashion and sustainable fashion brands.
This study was performed to suggest a novel method of sustainably dyeing textiles with biofunctions for skin health by using natural seabuckthorn leaf extract. Mongolian seabuckthorn leaves were extracted in hot water to create a solid dye powder to be characterized by UV/Vis and FT-IR, and its biological activities were examined. A silk woven fabric was dyed with the seabuckthorn leaf extract under a variety of conditions to identify optimum dyeing conditions along with color fastness. To assess the skin-friendly functions of the dyed fabric, its UV-protective properties and antimicrobial activities were investigated quantitatively. As a result, the fabric showed maximum dye uptake (K/S) under the conditions of 80 °C and 60 min, which was improved under acidic conditions. The dyeing fastness mostly showed good and excellent grades in perspiration, rubbing, and dry cleaning, while it showed a fair grade in fastness to light. The silk dyed at 30% or higher concentrations showed superior UV-protective properties and provided excellent antimicrobial efficacy (99.9% bacterial reduction rate) against both S. aureus and K. pneumoniae. These results could be utilized in designing biofunctional textiles by natural dyeing with seabuckthorn leaf extract.
Electronic textiles (e-textiles) provide a great platform for creating stretch sensors in wearable applications as they are inherently flexible and stretchable allowing them to conform to the shape and movements of the human body. This study explores the integration of laser cut and 3D printed auxetic patterns into textile-based stretch sensors, investigating their design, fabrication, and sensing capabilities to develop a novel approach for creating flexible and highly sensitive e-textile stretch sensors for wearable applications. We employed two different biostable auxetic patterns to realize the stretch sensor structures and tested impedance change of the samples under repeated movements of stretching and relaxing. 3D printing of conductive filaments directly on fabric in an auxetic pattern resulted in reliable and repeatable stretch sensing capability. The study demonstrated that the stable and repeatable performance of e-textile stretch sensors depends on a combination of factors such as the fabrication method, conductive material, optimized auxetic geometry, base fabric recovery characteristics and the application of pre-stretching during fabrication.
Key Words
E-textile, Stretch sensor, Auxetic, 3D printing, Laser cutting
