Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles is the official publication of The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. It was launched in 1977. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles aims at providing up-to-date research contents and news on cutting-edge technologies, as well as facilitating the interaction between academia worldwide and related industries, thereby enhancing the professional expertise of its members and contributing to the advancement of apparel.
• Frequency : issued six times a year
• ISSN : 1225-1151 (Print)/2234-0793 (Online)
• Year of Launching : 1977
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Characteristics of New Luxury in Louis Vuitton's D2C-Based Mobile Application D2C(Direct-to-Consumer) 기반 루이비통 모바일 앱에 나타난 뉴 럭셔리(New Luxury) 특성
In addition to direct sales to consumers, the direct-to-consumers (D2C) strategy, which provides specialized experiences and services, communicates closely with a consumer's perspective. This tendency is related to the recent trend wherein the luxury fashion system is being transformed into a new luxury. Therefore, this study analyzes the development of online D2C platforms and investigates the characteristics of new luxury from the functional, symbolic, and experiential dimension perspectives based on mobile apps, which is becoming increasingly important among online D2C platforms. Based on the study results, the premium of new luxury fashion displayed in Louis Vuitton's mobile D2C platform in terms of product utility and functionality is newly defined as a usable luxury experience. Moreover, from the heritage perspective, based on the cultural sympathy of the brand contents, we determine that an attachment can be formed between new luxury fashion consumers and brands. Additionally, the personalization service and experiential content on the D2C platform can directly afford emotional and bonding induced brand immersion in a playful way.
Key Words
New luxury, Direct-to-consumer, Digital transformation, Mobile native app, Louis Vuitton, 뉴 럭셔리, 직접 판매, 디지털 트랜스포메이션, 모바일 네이티브 앱, 루이비통
Analysis on Measurements and Shapes of Adult Male Hands for Functional Product Design 기능성 제품 설계를 위한 성인 남성의 손 관련 치수 및 형상 분석
Today, functional gloves must allow the wearer to perform many kinds of delicate work while protecting the hands from hazardous materials. In this study, multiple analyses of 3D hand measurements were performed to provide information on the hand size and shape required for the design of functional gloves for adult men. Size and shape characteristics were identified from 19 different hand measurements, and three factors were collected through factor analysis. The aggregated factor score was used to classify men's hand shapes into three types. These types showed different distribution patterns according to age, indicating a significant distribution difference between hand type and age group. Discriminant analysis extracted nine items that highly contributed to determining hand type. However, since the data provided by Size Korea have some limitations in fully representing hand shape, sampling additional types of hand measurements and using consistent conditions and methods are required for more accurate analysis.
Key Words
Hand, s shape, Hand, s dimension, 3D measurements, Size Korea, 손 형상, 손 항목, 3차원 측정 치수, 사이즈코리아
Types and Trade Characteristics of Textile Products Imported from Japan during the Port-Opening Era -Focusing on Cotton, Silk, and Woollen Cloths- 개항기 일본으로부터 수입된 직물 상품의 종류와 무역 특성 -면직물, 견직물, 모직물을 중심으로-
Types and Trade Characteristics of Textile Products Imported from Japan during the Port-Opening Era -Focusing on Cotton, Silk, and Woollen Cloths- 개항기 일본으로부터 수입된 직물 상품의 종류와 무역 특성 -면직물, 견직물, 모직물을 중심으로-
This study examines the types of cotton, silk, and woollen products imported from Japan during the portopening period and explores the characteristics of import trade related to these textile products. Data were obtained from the Japanese trade statistics published by the Japanese government between the late 19th and the early 20th centuries. Several key findings were made from these data. First, at least 24 types of cotton fabrics, 13 silk fabrics, and 16 woollen fabrics imported from Japan were identified. Several types of weaves that can be found in the present day were also identified. Second, the total import of textiles during the port-opening period made up 33.7% of the total imports from Japan, indicating that textiles were an important aspect of import trade with Japan. The value of textile imports from Japan tended to increase overall during this time. Cotton fabrics and silk fabrics showed a tendency to increase continuously, while woollen fabrics showed a trend of gradual increase over repeating periods of increase and decrease. It is apparent from examining the ratio of Japanese and foreign products that cotton fabrics, silk fabrics, and woollen fabrics show different characteristics.
Key Words
Imported textile products, The port-opening era, Trade between Korea and Japan, 수입 직물 상품, 개항기, 한국 일본 간 무역
Analysis of the Types of Dementia Patients for Development of Clothes for Dementia Patient in Nursing Homes 요양시설 치매환자복 디자인 개발을 위한 치매환자의 유형 분석
박광애 Kwang Ae Park , 양정은 Chung Eun Yang , 이재향 Jae Hyang Lee , 김희정 Hee-jung Kim
This study aims to obtain basic data to develop clothes for dementia patients by classifying types of dementia patients. Data was collected from those dementia patients who entered a nursing home. This study analyzed a total of 221 sheets. Furthermore, descriptive statistics, cross-tabulation, and K-means clustering were performed for statistical processing using Minitab 14. As a result, dementia patients were classified into four types: inactive-dependent, active-problematic behavior, activity-autonomy, and inactive-offensive. Inactive-dependent type was a group with the most severe disability in cognitive and daily activity functions; however, they lacked behavioral and psychological symptoms and problematic behavior with clothes. Active-problematic behavior type showed the most behavioral and psychological problems and problematic behavior with clothes. Activity-autonomy type was a group without any problematic behaviors. Moreover, the inactive-offensive type had very good cognitive function toward humans. The study imply that it is necessary to provide clothes with proper functions based on the types of patients rather than providing them uniform clothes because clinical and clothes behaviors differ significantly depending on the types of dementia patients.
A Study on Persona and Self-Presentation through Fashion on Instagram -Focusing on Women in Their 20s and 30s- 인스타그램에서의 페르소나와 패션을 통한 자기표현에 관한 연구 -20~30대 여성을 중심으로-
A Study on Persona and Self-Presentation through Fashion on Instagram -Focusing on Women in Their 20s and 30s- 인스타그램에서의 페르소나와 패션을 통한 자기표현에 관한 연구 -20~30대 여성을 중심으로-
This study qualitatively explored the case of users utilizing multiple accounts on one social network service to create their own multiple spaces and different personas. The purpose of the study was to understand the behavior of people who use multiple accounts to express their identity online using Carl Jung's personality theory. We used in-depth interviews and the Zaltman metaphor elicitation technique (ZMET), targeting 19 people in their 20s and 30s who use more than one personal account on Instagram. Creating a shared consensus map using the configuration concept of ZMET derived six personas in relation to Instagram accounts. The motivations for the respondents' self-presentation associated with their personas and self-presentation types shown on Instagram were analyzed in terms of persona and fashion and subdivided into five dimensions: relationship management strategic presentation, self-monitoring presentation, competence demonstration presentation, anonymous presentation, and persona-centered presentation. Each respondent's persona and self-presentation formed by the Instagram account was analyzed.
Key Words
Personality theory, Persona, Instagram, Self-presentation, Self-presentation through fashion, 인격 이론, 페르소나, 인스타그램, 자기표현, 패션을 통한 자기표현
Development and Image Sensibility Evaluation of Jacquard Fabric Fashion Masks with Traditional Patterns 전통 문양을 활용한 자카드 직물 패션 마스크 디자인 개발과 이미지 감성 평가
김민수 Min Su Kim , 김한나 Han Na Kim , 전성기 Sung Gi Jeon , 이정순 Jung Soon Lee
This study aims to develop jacquard fashion masks using traditional patterns and investigates the preference and emotions of consumers for them. Nine patterns were designed with the motifs of plum flower, turtle, and geometric patterns using an Adobe Illustrator program. After that, 20 kinds of jacquard fabrics were developed using those patterns, and prototype masks were made. Furthermore, data were collected using a survey of 231 adult consumers to understand the emotional images evoked by jacquard fashion masks with traditional patterns. The results of the research show that the emotional dimension derived from jacquard fashion masks with traditional patterns consists of seven factors: luxurious image, frugal image, feminine image, oriental image, sporty image, geometrical image, generous image. We found that consumers preferred the M6 with the plum flower pattern as the motif as the most preferred design, while M13 with the geometric pattern as the motif was the lowest preferred.
Key Words
Fashion mask, Jacquard fabric mask, Traditional pattern mask, Mask design, Image sensibility evaluation, 패션 마스크, 자카드 직물 마스크, 전통 문양 마스크, 마스크 디자인, 이미지 감성 평가
A Study on the Pet Soil Removal Effect of Washing Conditions Using a Chemiluminescence Reaction 화학발광 반응을 이용한 세탁조건별 반려동물 오구 제거효과 연구
In this study, we used a chemiluminescence reaction to investigate the removal effect of pet soil, such as dog blood, urine and feces. The soiled fabrics were washed with a standard laundry course of 30°C and a washing time of 30 min and a pet care laundry course of 40-60°C and a washing time of 100 min. The detergency was evaluated by the surface reflectance and chemiluminescence reaction (bloodstain detection by luminol test and urine-stain and feces-stain detection by UV blacklight test) before and after washing. The surface reflectance results did not show any difference in detergency for both courses, whereas the chemiluminescence reaction did. The detergency of the pet care course compared to the standard course was 101% according to the surface reflectance and 120% according to the chemiluminescence reaction. Therefore, residual stains not detected by surface reflectance can be evaluated through chemiluminescence reaction, and it was confirmed that pet stains can be managed more hygienically by washing for a long time at a high temperature.
Key Words
Pet soil, Standard laundry course, Pet care laundry course, Chemiluminescence reaction, Detergency, 반려동물 오구, 표준 세탁코스, 펫케어 세탁코스, 화학발광 반응, 세척률
A Study on Characteristics and Specialization of Menswear Designers 남성복 디자이너의 특성과 전문화에 관한 연구
The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of menswear designers and the process of becoming a menswear designer expert through qualitative evaluation and statistical analysis. This study used ten menswear designers with more than fifteen years of experience. After going through the University P IRB approval process, a semi-structured questionnaire was prepared and individual in-depth face-to-face or video interviews were conducted from March 1, 2020 to March 31, 2021. From this qualitative study examining the characteristics of menswear designer job experience, four key themes were found: the competence required for the professionalization process of menswear designers; the creative sensibility of menswear designers; the uniqueness of menswear designers' work; basic education required for menswear designers. In order to find additional meaningful implications using the visual analysis technique, we examined the primary vocabulary using the word cloud technique and examined the relationship between the vocabulary using the network graph. In the follow-up study, we expect to develop a material-oriented education program for new menswear designers and to resolve the limitations of the study, targeting a small number of experienced menswear designers.
This study aimed to ex situ colorize laccase-entrapped bacterial cellulose (BC) with natural phenolic dyes, namely,madder, turmeric, and cochineal, and to determine the effect of laccase entrapment on the dyeability of BC using color strength (K/S) analysis. Results showed that laccase entrapment improved the dyeability of BC and that pre-entrapment was the most effective method, compared with meta-entrapment and post-entrapment methods. In addition, surface characterizations confirmed the successful entrapment of laccase inside the BC nanostructure and retention of the cellulosic and crystalline structures of BC. The washing durability test confirmed that the K/S value of BC had improved after laccase entrapment. Furthermore, laccase-entrapped BC colorized with cochineal dye had the highest washing durability due to the high molecular weight of cochineal dyerelative to the other dyes. This study suggests a novel method for enhancing the dyeability and washing durability of BC colorized ex situ with natural phenolic dyes by laccase entrapment.
This study proposes a simple drape measurement method for the 3D virtualization of garments. The proposed method uses angles or disks of different diameters to evaluate the drape properties easily. We divided 710 fabrics into ten groups based on the drape coefficient, of which 49.6% had drape coefficients of 30 or less. The drape properties were measured to classify the groups into smaller clusters using the angle formed when the center of the fabric was fixed. Accordingly, three clusters were formed for 60° and 100° angles. A method was devised using ten disks of different diameters to classify the remaining two clusters, except the cluster containing only the D10 group (D1-D5 and D5-D9). Three criteria-grade match, a sum of deviation, and standardization of deviation-were used for the classifications. The discriminative ability between groups was high for D1-D5 with disks with 24.0 and 25.5 cm diameters. Furthermore, a disk with a diameter of 16.5 cm was effective for D5-D9. The three-dimensional drape shapes were unique for the ten groups, which can be utilized as fundamental data for 3D virtualization.
Key Words
3D virtualization, Drape coefficient, Angle measurement, Disk size, 3D scanning, 3D 가상화, 드레이프 계수, 각도 측정법, 원판 크기, 3D 스캐닝
